Since the oil invasion in the Gulf of Mexico, we have been widening our horizons by exploring the freshwater side of kayaking. Although saltwater kayaking is and always will be our true love, this summer has not been as favorable on the water as it was last summer. We have dealt with weird winds, storms, rough water and of course, the oil. So, we have taken several opportunities to explore the creeks and rivers in our area starting with the Wakulla River and then the Chipola River. A friend of my brother told us about Holmes Creek which is located in Washington County, just outside of Vernon on Hwy. 277. So, with Google Earth loaded on our computer, we researched our launch options and devised a plan of action.
We decided to launch at Cotton Landing, about a 45 minute drive from our house. All the launch sites along the creek are controlled by the Northwest Florida Water Management District. Cotton Landing is fairly easy to find and the road to the landing is well maintained. The area offers picnic tables and a portable restroom but the launch is not ideal for kayaks, canoes, or any other type of boat. There are aluminum canoes available for rent at this location and although we did not witness a canoe launch, we can only assume they are pushed off the one-foot drop off into the creek.
We managed to get our kayaks into the water and decided if we were ever going to do this again, we would bring our two smaller kayaks. They would be more manageable at this launch site. We prefer a sandy beach to launch from and this landing had no sand, a one-foot drop off into a boggy bottom and tree stumps to deal with. However, we were here and we were going down the creek. The morning fog was above the creek when we left the landing but quickly disappeared as the air warmed up.
There were three other kayakers from Santa Rosa that had come to paddle down the creek. The woman that was with the group had paddled Holmes Creek before and filled us in on some directions and destination spots, one of which was Cypress Springs. We had seen the spring on the map and knew about where it was so we were good to go.
Heading out, we thought the creek was running rather fast. The Wakulla and Chipola had been much slower compared to this so we would have to really pay attention in order to stay out of the banks. Shortly after leaving the landing, we came upon a downed tree across the creek. It appeared to us that you could not get around the tree so we prepared to pull the kayaks out of the water and walk them around the tree. The three kayakers behind us paddled up and the woman let us know that the tree was passable with a little maneuvering. Jr. already had his kayak on land and continued to walk it around the tree. I decided to paddle around it, following the three kayakers in front of me.
Once back on course we continued down the creek for about a third of a mile before we reached the spring run to Cypress Springs. Once you head up the run, the water becomes crystal clear and looks much more shallow than it actually is. The bottom is sandy with a zillion little freshwater snails on the bottom. And, no kidding, there are dollar weeds growing in the creek bottom! I could not believe it!
The run to the spring is not long and you can hear so clearly on the creek you know you are getting close when you hear the voices of those already there. The land around the spring is private and fenced off but the landowners allow boaters to pull up to the bank as long as the area is kept clean. I must say, we saw very little litter along the creek and around the spring.
Since we were here so early, there were only a couple other boats at the spring. We parked our kayaks and got out to look at the spring and enjoy the COLD water.
The spring is breathtaking in color and clarity. You can see straight down into it. We took a couple underwater shots with our waterproof camera and wished we had brought along a mask and snorkel so we could float over the spring and look down into it. The water comes out rather forcefully and as we tried to float over the top of the spring in our kayaks to get pictures, it was hard to stay in one spot for very long. This is a Magnitude 2 spring with a 89 million gallons per day flow. Nestle brand bottled water comes from this spring.
After leaving Cypress Springs, we continued our paddle downstream to another spring we had seen on the map. While paddling, we thought we heard traffic on a nearby highway but in fact, it was a swarm of hornets! We put the kayaks in overdrive to get past the swarm. We rounded the bend and found the spring run and could still hear the hornets. A short piece ahead we came to the spring. Although not as big as Cypress Springs, it is much deeper and many people dive in this spring. There is very little flow from this spring but it is indeed a major contributor to Holmes Creek. We are not sure, but we think this was Becton Springs.
We paddled out and downstream wondering what else we might come across. We had passed many small motor boats going upstream and didn't know where they were coming from except maybe the landing in Vernon. We then discovered they were launching from Culpepper Landing. This landing is much nicer than Cotton Landing and we have decided, next trip, we are launching here and paddling upstream to the springs.
Just a bit further downstream, we stopped for lunch on a flat bank. The three kayakers passed us on their way to the landing at Hwy. 79 in Vernon. They offered us a ride back to our truck if we wanted to paddle farther but we decided to paddle back upstream and visit Cypress Springs one more time before heading back to the landing. On the return trip, we came upon a German Shepherd sitting on a dock and as soon as we passed him, he began barking and crying as if he was asking to come along with us. I heard him hit the water but he thankfully did not follow us.
As we got closer to the springs again, the locals were out in full force. Aluminum rental canoes were everywhere along with many small motor boats. The springs were full and the party had begun. We did not paddle all the way to the springs but stopped along the shallows to rest a bit and enjoy the cool water before heading back to the landing. After a quick break, it was back to the creek and the short paddle upstream to the landing.
We have had great times on the rivers and creeks we have paddled this summer. We are going back to Wakulla River in a couple weeks and taking our daughter and my sister along. We are hoping to visit a few more places before our season ends. Tomorrow we will hit the saltwater, just to make things fair. We are so fortunate to live in an area where we can be in the Gulf one day and at the springs the next or see a sea turtle on one trip and a mantee the next. Such is the diversity of the Panhandle and I cannot think of a better place to live. I only wish we had discovered kayaking when we were younger but we are learning and experiencing as much as we can every weekend. As long as we have our health and our strength, we are going to be on the water, somewhere, come the weekend!
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Monday, July 19, 2010
HALF WAY TO THE END
Well, my husband has announced that it is time to begin getting ready for hunting season. What? So soon? It is only mid-July! July marks the midway point of our kayaking season, of baseball season and the fact the fields must be mowed and planted and feeders put up so the deer will have food to eat in the upcoming colder months. You can imagine my reply to his announcement. It was a huge NO! If it were up to me, we would kayak year round and baseball would never end!
Nonetheless, we are still kayaking and as this summer has not been as nice as last summer, we are trying to get to all possible kayaking spots before the end of the season. We applied for and finally received our recreation passes for Tyndall Air Force Base. It took several trips out there, a background check, and many confusing telephone calls but we finally got them into our grubby little hands. Now, we can enter the base and launch from several prime locations without having to secure a sponsor or limiting our visit to only 72 hours. New rules were established a few months ago and it is very hard to get on base anymore with just a sponsor. Last year my uncle sponsored us for a day trip on base and we launched at the Heritage Club and paddled out and over to Shell Island. With the passes, there are several other, much closer spots we can launch from now and the passes are good for one year.
So, on Saturday, it was out to Tyndall we went. We would miss going to the sound for the third weekend. We already knew the weather and the wind were not going to be in our favor but we were determined to launch from inside the base and paddle to somewhere, anywhere. Our first choice was to launch from Archery Road and paddle over to Shell Island. We had never been to this location before but with our map in hand, we finally found it. It is not a bad place to launch but the water looked like the Gulf of Mexico during a hurricane. No launching from this spot today and therefore, no trip to Shell Island.
Not to waste the day, we headed to Redfish Point which is close to the golf course. We had paddled there several times last year but had launched from the marina. Launching from inside Tyndall would get us that much closer to the bay and Shell Island. Driving through Tyndall is such a treat. If you have never been on base, you are truly missing something. I see now why so many people request to be stationed there. With the huge oak trees and natural landscapes base wide, Tyndall is absolutely gorgeous, from one end to the other. We made our way to the point via the golf course only to come to a dead end. Have you ever tried to turn around an extra long wheelbase Ford truck with a boat trailer attached to it? It is not an easy task and impossible where we were so we ended up driving a short distance down a golf cart trail and then backing up. Luckily, no one noticed us. We then found a different road that went through the woods and finally ended at the point. Not a possible launching location due to the high hill but a beautiful drive anyway.
Onward to the next location, not to waste any of the day, we went to the far east end of the base to what is known at the STP boat ramp. This boat ramp is at the far west end of Crooked Island Sound. We have seen wave runners and other boats coming from this end of the sound before but never knew where they were launching from. Now we knew their secret! This is a nice boat ramp that offers plenty of room to turn around and park. Although Buck Beach is our favorite launch for Crooked Island Sound, this boat ramp gives us the chance to explore the west end of the sound, something we have not done in the three years we have been going there. We launched the kayaks and paddled to the adjacent shoreline. With a 20mph wind in our faces, we had to hug the shoreline to get anywhere.
We landed on a sandy point and walked around. We could see storms approaching from the east and we knew rounding the point would not be a good idea considering the strong wind and nearing rain. Jr. decided to get out his new rod and reel. He put a crab on the hook and cast out into the water. It was calm where we were because the beach was blocking the wind. It was only a minute or two and he landed a huge flounder. His first catch on his new rig and his first ever flounder! Into the cooler the fish went. Dinner! He fished a bit longer and caught another one which was smaller but still a keeper. More dinner!
The rain came although most of it went around us into the Gulf. After the brief shower, we had our lunch and then decided to call it a day. The day was cut short because of the wind and rain but we had explored all the new spots to launch on base and caught dinner. The day was not wasted at all!
Sunday promised to be a much better day with calmer winds and only late afternoon showers. We were up early and all four kayaks were strapped on the trailer and ready to go by 8:00. Our daughter, Jenny and a friend of hers would be coming along with us today. She had never been to Lake Powell so it was her choice to go there today. We were hoping the small pass to the Gulf would be open so we could venture out for a ride in the waves. When we arrived at the boat ramp, the lake was flat and calm and the wind had not picked up yet. A good sign indeed.
We paddled to the Gulf end of the lake and as we got closer, we could see that the pass had been closed, solid as a rock. Huge mounds of white sand stood guard, at as of last week was a substantial opening to the Gulf. The pass was filled in and the huge mountains of sand created berms against the approaching oil. Kids on the beach had no idea the sand mountains were there to protect the lake from the oil but rather that some wonderful sand fairy had left them huge sand piles to play on. There would be no going into the Gulf today because one, the pass was closed and two, the water was too rough to launch from the beach.
We walked down the beach and unlike on our last two visits to this very beach in recent weeks, we did not see hoards of oil workers. Just a few and a couple in vehicles, one of which offered us cold bottled water. I thought that was rather strange. On our return walk down the beach, we spotted our first ever tar balls. Not balls so much as gooey oily blobs. We saw not one or two, but many. We had not seen any on the other weekends so this was unsettling to say the least. With only two, maybe four workers on the beach, we wondered if the oil would be cleaned up or end up on the bottom of everyone's feet as they walked down the beach.
After a wonderful lunch, we hiked up to Camp Helen. On my last trip to Camp Helen, I fell in love with the woodsy scenery against the backdrop of the white sandy beaches and aqua Gulf water but somehow managed to delete my photos from my camera. Today would be different and I would guard my photos with my life! This park is simply, in one word, beautiful. It has now been taken over by oil workers and is a staging area for the South Walton end of the beach. The views are breathtaking and the park offers bathroom facilities and a shower to rinse off for beachgoers and cabins for weekend visitors. I would love to spend a few days there!
When I was a child and a Girl Scout, Camp Helen was a place we would go to as a troop during the summer along with other troops from the area. I can remember one huge building where we slept in our bedrolls and had our sing-a-longs. While at the camp, we would work on several badges and I can remember, quite vividly, learning how to make beef stew in a coffee can. Camp Helen today is much different than I remember and I am not sure it was even called Camp Helen back then but it is now a state park and is accessible by all. It is a wonderful place to visit by car or by boat and has become a favorite kayaking spot for us this summer.
Returning to the boat ramp was relaxing and calm with a mild wind. We were all tired and sunburned but it had been a fun day. Everyday I get to kayak is the best day for me. If the weather is less than optimal, we can still make something of our day. If the weather is perfect, the day is just that much sweeter. Regardless, kayaking calms me, reenergizes me, reconnects me and most importantly, soothes my soul. I have learned to appreciate our waters and beaches so much more this summer due to the oil crisis and make no mistake, I will never take any of it for granted again. We are so blessed to live in Bay County with all that it offers. We have explored so much of it by land and by water and the treasures we have here are simply incredible!
Hopefully, we can survive the rest of the summer without a major impact from the oil. All we can do is hope and pray. We have been told if we can survive into August, we may escape the worst of it. Each day brings new news, some good, some bad. I hold my breath more often now, hoping BP will get this right and the oil will stop flowing and the huge undertaking of cleaning up the Gulf can begin. This has been traumatic for so many and the worst is not yet over. So, do your part, keep our beaches clean, report any oil you see and enjoy what we are truly blessed to have here!
Nonetheless, we are still kayaking and as this summer has not been as nice as last summer, we are trying to get to all possible kayaking spots before the end of the season. We applied for and finally received our recreation passes for Tyndall Air Force Base. It took several trips out there, a background check, and many confusing telephone calls but we finally got them into our grubby little hands. Now, we can enter the base and launch from several prime locations without having to secure a sponsor or limiting our visit to only 72 hours. New rules were established a few months ago and it is very hard to get on base anymore with just a sponsor. Last year my uncle sponsored us for a day trip on base and we launched at the Heritage Club and paddled out and over to Shell Island. With the passes, there are several other, much closer spots we can launch from now and the passes are good for one year.
So, on Saturday, it was out to Tyndall we went. We would miss going to the sound for the third weekend. We already knew the weather and the wind were not going to be in our favor but we were determined to launch from inside the base and paddle to somewhere, anywhere. Our first choice was to launch from Archery Road and paddle over to Shell Island. We had never been to this location before but with our map in hand, we finally found it. It is not a bad place to launch but the water looked like the Gulf of Mexico during a hurricane. No launching from this spot today and therefore, no trip to Shell Island.
Not to waste the day, we headed to Redfish Point which is close to the golf course. We had paddled there several times last year but had launched from the marina. Launching from inside Tyndall would get us that much closer to the bay and Shell Island. Driving through Tyndall is such a treat. If you have never been on base, you are truly missing something. I see now why so many people request to be stationed there. With the huge oak trees and natural landscapes base wide, Tyndall is absolutely gorgeous, from one end to the other. We made our way to the point via the golf course only to come to a dead end. Have you ever tried to turn around an extra long wheelbase Ford truck with a boat trailer attached to it? It is not an easy task and impossible where we were so we ended up driving a short distance down a golf cart trail and then backing up. Luckily, no one noticed us. We then found a different road that went through the woods and finally ended at the point. Not a possible launching location due to the high hill but a beautiful drive anyway.
Onward to the next location, not to waste any of the day, we went to the far east end of the base to what is known at the STP boat ramp. This boat ramp is at the far west end of Crooked Island Sound. We have seen wave runners and other boats coming from this end of the sound before but never knew where they were launching from. Now we knew their secret! This is a nice boat ramp that offers plenty of room to turn around and park. Although Buck Beach is our favorite launch for Crooked Island Sound, this boat ramp gives us the chance to explore the west end of the sound, something we have not done in the three years we have been going there. We launched the kayaks and paddled to the adjacent shoreline. With a 20mph wind in our faces, we had to hug the shoreline to get anywhere.
We landed on a sandy point and walked around. We could see storms approaching from the east and we knew rounding the point would not be a good idea considering the strong wind and nearing rain. Jr. decided to get out his new rod and reel. He put a crab on the hook and cast out into the water. It was calm where we were because the beach was blocking the wind. It was only a minute or two and he landed a huge flounder. His first catch on his new rig and his first ever flounder! Into the cooler the fish went. Dinner! He fished a bit longer and caught another one which was smaller but still a keeper. More dinner!
The rain came although most of it went around us into the Gulf. After the brief shower, we had our lunch and then decided to call it a day. The day was cut short because of the wind and rain but we had explored all the new spots to launch on base and caught dinner. The day was not wasted at all!
Sunday promised to be a much better day with calmer winds and only late afternoon showers. We were up early and all four kayaks were strapped on the trailer and ready to go by 8:00. Our daughter, Jenny and a friend of hers would be coming along with us today. She had never been to Lake Powell so it was her choice to go there today. We were hoping the small pass to the Gulf would be open so we could venture out for a ride in the waves. When we arrived at the boat ramp, the lake was flat and calm and the wind had not picked up yet. A good sign indeed.
We paddled to the Gulf end of the lake and as we got closer, we could see that the pass had been closed, solid as a rock. Huge mounds of white sand stood guard, at as of last week was a substantial opening to the Gulf. The pass was filled in and the huge mountains of sand created berms against the approaching oil. Kids on the beach had no idea the sand mountains were there to protect the lake from the oil but rather that some wonderful sand fairy had left them huge sand piles to play on. There would be no going into the Gulf today because one, the pass was closed and two, the water was too rough to launch from the beach.
We walked down the beach and unlike on our last two visits to this very beach in recent weeks, we did not see hoards of oil workers. Just a few and a couple in vehicles, one of which offered us cold bottled water. I thought that was rather strange. On our return walk down the beach, we spotted our first ever tar balls. Not balls so much as gooey oily blobs. We saw not one or two, but many. We had not seen any on the other weekends so this was unsettling to say the least. With only two, maybe four workers on the beach, we wondered if the oil would be cleaned up or end up on the bottom of everyone's feet as they walked down the beach.
After a wonderful lunch, we hiked up to Camp Helen. On my last trip to Camp Helen, I fell in love with the woodsy scenery against the backdrop of the white sandy beaches and aqua Gulf water but somehow managed to delete my photos from my camera. Today would be different and I would guard my photos with my life! This park is simply, in one word, beautiful. It has now been taken over by oil workers and is a staging area for the South Walton end of the beach. The views are breathtaking and the park offers bathroom facilities and a shower to rinse off for beachgoers and cabins for weekend visitors. I would love to spend a few days there!
When I was a child and a Girl Scout, Camp Helen was a place we would go to as a troop during the summer along with other troops from the area. I can remember one huge building where we slept in our bedrolls and had our sing-a-longs. While at the camp, we would work on several badges and I can remember, quite vividly, learning how to make beef stew in a coffee can. Camp Helen today is much different than I remember and I am not sure it was even called Camp Helen back then but it is now a state park and is accessible by all. It is a wonderful place to visit by car or by boat and has become a favorite kayaking spot for us this summer.
Returning to the boat ramp was relaxing and calm with a mild wind. We were all tired and sunburned but it had been a fun day. Everyday I get to kayak is the best day for me. If the weather is less than optimal, we can still make something of our day. If the weather is perfect, the day is just that much sweeter. Regardless, kayaking calms me, reenergizes me, reconnects me and most importantly, soothes my soul. I have learned to appreciate our waters and beaches so much more this summer due to the oil crisis and make no mistake, I will never take any of it for granted again. We are so blessed to live in Bay County with all that it offers. We have explored so much of it by land and by water and the treasures we have here are simply incredible!
Hopefully, we can survive the rest of the summer without a major impact from the oil. All we can do is hope and pray. We have been told if we can survive into August, we may escape the worst of it. Each day brings new news, some good, some bad. I hold my breath more often now, hoping BP will get this right and the oil will stop flowing and the huge undertaking of cleaning up the Gulf can begin. This has been traumatic for so many and the worst is not yet over. So, do your part, keep our beaches clean, report any oil you see and enjoy what we are truly blessed to have here!
Sunday, July 11, 2010
THREE FOR ONE
This weekend was particularly special as far as kayaking goes. We had three different experiences, all in one weekend, going from one extreme to the other. Kayaking with friends and having a blast.
Saturday was our designated Crooked Island Sound day. We had planned all week to go, still making every effort to go every weekend when possible before the oil hits. We were up early, loaded and on the road. The wind was a southwesterly wind this weekend and we knew things might be rough. Going into the sound we met our friends, Beth and Steve. They were leaving because they said the water was too rough to cross. We talked with them for a few minutes and then headed to the landing to see for ourselves. They were right, white caps and a lot of wind. So, now what? Plan B. They were heading to Chipola River so we decided to tag along with them. We had never been so this would be a new experience.
We launched from the park on Hwy. 20 and paddled up stream. The current was calm and the scenery beautiful. The river was not as clear as I had hoped but there were pretty white sandy beaches along the way which made for great rest stops and a perfect place for a picnic lunch. There were very few houses along the river which surprised us. We saw a lot of limestone rocks along the banks which were great to look at and explore. We paddled several miles until the afternoon thunderstorms made their grand entrance and under an overhanging tree we went. As soon as the storm passed, we paddled a bit further up stream until we heard another storm approaching. We decided to turn around and head back to the landing. We still aren't sold on river kayaking but is was a nice change.
We had planned earlier in the week to return to Lake Powell on Sunday. Now with a westerly wind, we knew the water might be rough but we were going. We had been there on July 4 and had a good time and enjoyed paddling to the Gulf and walking on the beach. At the landing, we noticed the lake was down. That meant the lake had either broken through to the Gulf or they had dredged the pass to let the lake drain down. As we got closer to the beach, we could see that a pass had emerged and there was clear access to the Gulf. With the west wind, the Gulf was rough and pushing water into the inlet along with a high tide. The current was strong but we eventually made it to the beach.
So far no oil on the beach but there were plenty of oil workers, National Guard troops, airplanes and helicopters on the beach. I describe it as a war zone, as if we are under attack and in a way, I suppose we are, from BP and the ever spilling oil. We enjoyed walking down the beach but let me say, the beach is not as beautiful as before and it isn't from any oil but from the constant bombardment of four-wheeled vehicles cruising the beach. I know we will have to endure this situation for years to come and that is sad. Our beaches are in horrible shape right now and the oil has not even arrived. I can't imagine what they will look like once the oil does come.
We had lunch on the beach and then packed up to head back to the landing. With the west wind blowing so strongly today, we popped our sails and sailed straight back to the landing. We love when we get a chance to use our sails!
The weekend was fantastic. Mostly great weather, a river trip with friends, a lake trip, another peek at the oil-free Gulf and a chance to sail. What more could we have asked for? Not a thing!
Saturday was our designated Crooked Island Sound day. We had planned all week to go, still making every effort to go every weekend when possible before the oil hits. We were up early, loaded and on the road. The wind was a southwesterly wind this weekend and we knew things might be rough. Going into the sound we met our friends, Beth and Steve. They were leaving because they said the water was too rough to cross. We talked with them for a few minutes and then headed to the landing to see for ourselves. They were right, white caps and a lot of wind. So, now what? Plan B. They were heading to Chipola River so we decided to tag along with them. We had never been so this would be a new experience.
We launched from the park on Hwy. 20 and paddled up stream. The current was calm and the scenery beautiful. The river was not as clear as I had hoped but there were pretty white sandy beaches along the way which made for great rest stops and a perfect place for a picnic lunch. There were very few houses along the river which surprised us. We saw a lot of limestone rocks along the banks which were great to look at and explore. We paddled several miles until the afternoon thunderstorms made their grand entrance and under an overhanging tree we went. As soon as the storm passed, we paddled a bit further up stream until we heard another storm approaching. We decided to turn around and head back to the landing. We still aren't sold on river kayaking but is was a nice change.
We had planned earlier in the week to return to Lake Powell on Sunday. Now with a westerly wind, we knew the water might be rough but we were going. We had been there on July 4 and had a good time and enjoyed paddling to the Gulf and walking on the beach. At the landing, we noticed the lake was down. That meant the lake had either broken through to the Gulf or they had dredged the pass to let the lake drain down. As we got closer to the beach, we could see that a pass had emerged and there was clear access to the Gulf. With the west wind, the Gulf was rough and pushing water into the inlet along with a high tide. The current was strong but we eventually made it to the beach.
So far no oil on the beach but there were plenty of oil workers, National Guard troops, airplanes and helicopters on the beach. I describe it as a war zone, as if we are under attack and in a way, I suppose we are, from BP and the ever spilling oil. We enjoyed walking down the beach but let me say, the beach is not as beautiful as before and it isn't from any oil but from the constant bombardment of four-wheeled vehicles cruising the beach. I know we will have to endure this situation for years to come and that is sad. Our beaches are in horrible shape right now and the oil has not even arrived. I can't imagine what they will look like once the oil does come.
We had lunch on the beach and then packed up to head back to the landing. With the west wind blowing so strongly today, we popped our sails and sailed straight back to the landing. We love when we get a chance to use our sails!
The weekend was fantastic. Mostly great weather, a river trip with friends, a lake trip, another peek at the oil-free Gulf and a chance to sail. What more could we have asked for? Not a thing!
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